Feb 24 – Lembar-Matahan, Lombok, Indonesia. Another hot day in the islands. Our ship is docked in Lembar but we are heading to Matahan for some sightseeing.
Lombok is classified as a 'Palau', an island in the local dialect. Smaller landmasses are called 'Gili' and many of them in this area are resorts. There are three famous ones in this bay. Gili Nanggo is the largest and has a very nice resort as well as a good reef for diving and snorkeling.
We are landing in the city of Lembar. Situated inside a small bay on the southwest coast of the island, it's a small city with no real port so our ship will anchor in the bay and we will ride ashore on the ship's tenders (aka lifeboats). Our first tender port for this trip. The ship has 14 lifeboats, 4 of which are larger, enclosed boats that they use in ports where we can't dock to disembark passengers. The island is not large, about 40 miles wide by 50 miles long and mostly square except for the fishhook like isthmus at the south western corner that helps for the bay in which we're anchored. This area was originally a Dutch port in the colonial era.
Since the towns on this island are so small, horse cart (cidomo) is a common mode of transportation. Of course, as with most places Asian motorbikes and scooters are everywhere. The horses on the island are small, but then so are the carts. They seem to be strong as they can pull heavily loaded carts at a pretty good clip.
As our tender docked at the pier a band started playing. They were lined up on both sides of the red carpet as we walked up from the floating dock. They had the drummers and cymbalists along the red carpet and those playing the larger gongs and sets of chimes in wooden boxes seated at the end of the line on the right. The flautist was there as well.
Apparently every day is laundry day in Indonesia. Clothes were hanging out to dry everywhere. We drove through small villages and rice fields, some of which were still green, some turning yellow and some already harvested. We passed Mataham's very large mosque and way more motorcycle repair shops than I could count. I think for most families the motorbike is their main asset and they try to keep them running as long as they can.
We visited the Lingsar temple complex that was built in 1714. This is the most important temple on the island for the Balinese and for the local Sasak people who adhere to Wetu Telu Islam. I never knew there were as many forms of Islam as there are Protestant Denominations. We mostly hear about the Sunni and Shiites as they have caused most of the conflict lately. The complex has a Hindu temple as well. It's built in the northern section of the complex and you have to climb some stairs to get there from the Wetu Telu temple, putting them 'closer to god'. I use the small 'g' intentionally because it's not possible to get closer to God; He's everywhere, all the time. They have a pool there and if you see the fish in it your prayer will be answered. It's guarded by the pair of gods, one (a human figure) riding on the shoulders of the other (a winged gargoyle). We have this statue at the front of our dining room on the ship. I'll have to ask who they are.
The temples here do not have the ornate buildings that we're used to seeing. In fact, it looks more like a multi-tiered park. Maybe it did once but they're gone now. A few walls are still here and the odd two sided gate at the entrance. They do build with that combination of brick, rock and concrete that I find very attractive.
There was an area in the complex apparently set aside for the use of Animists. They have an area where robed stones are set up in a line across an altar accompanied by flower and fruit offerings. So at least three belief systems worship at this complex. It's an interesting place in a very nice setting.
Our next stop was at the Sayang Art Market. Here several vendors have opened a center where they can all display their goods in one place. Makes for some interesting haggling. Diana found a woven placemat like tray with traditional batik cloth covering all but one inch around the edge on each side. It's very attractive. On a slightly raised patio in the center they had several artisans at work. One lady was weaving a basket of very fine straw and two men were carving, one a large rectangle of wood on which he was carving a pot with flowers and the other was carving fancy figures on sticks.
Out front they had a small band that was accompanying two men demonstrating Balinese stick fighting. Each man has a stick and a shield woven from wood. When the ref says go they commence beating on each other's shields until one man retreats. I'm sure an actual fight would have more techniques on display. Our guide told us that the men still teach the boys how to do this. Each participant wears a traditional Balinese 'do-rag' on his head. In the course of a real fight you will draw blood but the worst thing that can happen to you is that your opponent knocks off your do-rag. This is how a Balinese young man shows he is worthy of being treated as an adult and taking a wife. Yikes!!
On our way to our next stop we went through a little village and got caught in a horse cart jam or rather a cidomo jam. They have a market in the village center and apparently goods coming and going, plus customers headed to and from shopping just overwhelmed the main intersection. The motorbikes could still get through but not our bus. Advantage, motorbikes. The score is now bikes 1, busses 0.
We also stopped at a pearl shop. I asked Diana if she thought she might like to buy something but she said no so I didn't even go in. She did, but came out quickly. Too crowded for just looking.
Our next stop was at the Nusa Tenggara Barat Province Museum in Matahan. We've seen this nice but small museum before only two years ago so I opted to stay out on the airy patio and enjoy a cup of tea and a few small sticky rice and coconut snacks. Did I mention it's hot! The museum is not air conditioned and on the patio in the shade with the breeze it was very comfortable.
That was our last stop of the day and so it was back to the ship for a shower and some lunch. We decided on a burger and a hot dog from the Dive-In shop at the Lido midships pool. No breeze there so we took our lunches and moved indoors to the Lido Restaurant.
The evening's entertainment was Mario D'Andrea again so I had to go. No tap dancing this time, lots of very well played guitar and some singing. Not as good as the first show but still enjoyable.
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